It was immediately after the ’38 route on the Eiger and a couple of days off were needed. We decided to head over towards Zermatt to rest and maybe have a look at the North Face of the Matterhorn next up. The weather had now changed considerably since the Eiger, becoming much more unsettled and bringing heavy rain / snow to most of the Alps. We rested but conditions never improved, and it was a couple of days later I dropped Kev off in a very damp Geneva to fly back home. I however still had time on my hands, so I decided to head over to Chamonix to see who was about and what I could get done.

‘Ginger Ben’ a man that needs no introduction to Chamonix locals, was around and keen to climb. We met in Elevation (a bar- and as such a place where many good plans are hatched), and decided to go and have a look at the Grandes Charmoz North Face. This was a wall I have wanted to climb for a very, very long time. From first footsteps in the Alps many years ago to recent outings on neighbouring routes, this elegant peak is so often visible on days out from Cham I can feel it’s looming presence whenever I pass under its North wall. Did it whisper ‘fraud’ to me as I went past? Probably not, but it was definitely on the list. The route itself is a 900m uber-classic TD whose difficulties lie in first getting off the glacier onto the face (needs ice on the lower slabs- often seen as the crux), and a few tricky mixed pitches higher up. The route has a reputation for looking in condition and tempting would be ascensionist’s on to it, only to be thwarted by a lack of ice and snow covered rock. This was a tale I have heard on more than one occasion…

It was with regret a day or two later that Ben had to pull out of the proceedings when a long-lost (but evidently not forgotten) relative announced their imminent arrival in the valley and with it the need for lodgings and entertainment. On this occasion these were to be provided by Ben, and so now a new partner was needed. As luck would have it Colin Haley was in town and keen to get out, so with partners changed the plan was back on.

We met the next morning to discuss our tactics and make a plan. Unlike most alpine routes, the Grandes Charmoz is in such a geographical position and nature that opens up several possible styles of approach and ascent. Most big routes require a long-ish approach normally the day before, some type of sleep ‘themed’ activity (often just a few hours of sleeplessness in bitter cold with insufficient insulation passed by daydreaming of being somewhere warm), then the route and often a long descent. Our plan was to catch the last train of the day up to the Montenvers station and begin by biving there for the night. We would then stash our comfortable (heavy) bivy gear at the station and ski-tour into near the base of the wall to stash our skis and approach kit. This would enable us to hopefully get a decent sleep before the route and to go super light on the climb itself. It would also give us the option of either descending the back side of the Charmoz and heading straight back down to Cham (which would leave our skis to be collected at a later date), or if conditions and time allow, descend the back side before traversing back over the Col de la Buche to the North side of the mountain to pick up our skis and either ski back out to the Montenvers station or the James Bond trail back into town. Sounds simple? Not really, but then it is nice to have options in the mountains…

During the Montenvers bivy the wind picked up and became quite strong around the witching hour, so much so that we discussed our options if it was still the same when the alarm went off. This discussion was short as to be honest neither of us could think of any decent, ‘bad weather’ options to head to from our location, and so it was with relief when we awoke to a perfectly calm, crisp alpine morning. After my customary early-alpine bivi breakfast of Cliff Bars, M and M’s and chocolate covered coffee beans (alpine crack), a quick pack and stash of our now unwanted bivy gear, and we were ready for the off. A steep head-torch lit ski descent followed and we were on our way down towards the Mer de Glace; the glacier were we would begin our approach towards the face.

A large moon illuminated the mountains well and we made good progress skinning along the flat glacier until near the face. There we turned, and started searching for the line of ladders that we knew led up off the sheet of ice and onto the steeper approach slopes beneath the wall. As predicted these were difficult to find, but once located gave us a rough idea of the correct line of ascent when joined together in the opaque light. The linking up of these snowed up sections of steep ladder and metal posts with skis on our backs was all pretty good ‘Type 1’ fun for 4am, and a good warm-up for the work ahead. Think deserted kids adventure playground on a snowy day with skis and a pack along with a much bigger drop and you kind of get the idea…

The terrain soon kicked back so on again with the skis, with me and Colin both taking turns putting the skinning track up towards the wall. I have always enjoyed establishing skinning tracks. Aside from the fact time on skis is always good fun, the challenge of making a good track (not too steep, not to shallow) and in choosing a good line appeals greatly to me and upon completion can either be a knowledgeable work of art, or show glaring inexperience and poor judgement. It’s also about as close to artistic expression as I come (those who know me know that I am not an artist) but the fact it’s made in such a crazy frozen medium means it can either remain as a lasting monument to one’s experience, or disappear in a matter of minutes dependant on conditions. We continued like this up to a rock spur descending from the lower reaches of the wall. This was to be our high stash point for our skis and kit not needed on the climb.

Colin approaching the wall just up from the ski stash

Kit sorted and it was into climb mode just as the first rays of dawn began to illuminate the nearby peaks. The Aiguille Verte, the Sans Nom, the Dru, then the Droites along with the Grandes Jorasses all took their turn and soaked up the early alpine light. What a great place to be I thought. I could be asleep or in a whole host of other places right now, however I am here and very happy to be so. Up to the base of the route we went, to a well filled in bergshrund that granted us easy access onto our climb and it was here that Colin took the lead. The route looked to be in good condition and comprised mainly of ice from what we could see. The rope soon went tight and we began moving together, all on Scottish grade 4 type ground then a pitch or so of 5 which saw us progress over some awkward steps and onto good ice a couple of pitches up. It was great to get past these first couple of ‘problem’ pitches so easily which so often constitute the crux. The angle eased a little, and now several hundred meters of ice and neve followed, all at or around grade 3/4. I took the lead but after a couple more rope lengths and with the climbing remaining easy but good protection difficult to arrange, we decided to coil the ropes and soloed on up. The alpine ‘death pact’ was of no use to us today.

Colin at the start of the route, just up from the bergschrund

Myself seconding the first few pitches

Myself taking the lead

I remember reading an item written by Mark Twight many years ago about a solo ascent of this wall ending in a storm and subsequent harrowing descent after being forced to bail somewhere onto the East face. The article enthralled me as a youngster and I wondered if I would ever have a similar experience. I since have, however today would be nothing like that I was sure.

Colin motoring up the snow slope

We motored for a few hundred meters until we hit the large triangular snow patch in the centre of the face. We were cruising. Up to the top right hand side of this we continued until we hit ice once again. Another couple of moderate un-roped pitches followed, and before we knew it we were belayed below the beginning of the exit corners with some great looking Chamonix style mixed climbing above. Now Colin is a world-class Alpinist so when he suggested he took the lead because he might be faster I wasn’t going to argue.

‘Crack on’

Colin moving off on the brilliant mixed pitches at the top of the snow slope

Myself following

He took off looking super steady and led a couple of pitches upwards and then left, over to a bomber peg belay. This was all at about Scottish 5/6 with brilliant well protected ice-filled granite corners and cracks. It was here I joined him and with a quick change over began belaying Colin again as he moved off onto snowier ground this time round to the right. I was belayed in a narrowing and with Colin having to clear a lot of fresh powder to get to the climbing above I was fully immersed in spindrift hell for prob 45 min or so (because it felt like two hours) and by the time I was able to move off and follow the pitch I could barely hold my tools. I climbed up to meet Colin (and with him the hot aches from hell), then saw the trench he had dug to bring us around the corner. He assured me that the pitch was positively ‘Alaskan’ in nature and that I should get used to that for when I head over that way!

At the spindrift belay…

A short traverse over and around some snow mushrooms brought us into the final couloir that leads to the notch on the ridge. This was all pretty loose with rotten rock but again easy. By the time we reached this point it was 4pm, so with a return back down to Chamonix on the Montenvers train out of the window, it was time to kick back and enjoy the situation with no real time constraints. Alpine routes of this nature can very often be non-stop, high tempo affairs racing to catch primo conditions or make last lifts, so it was really nice to stop the clock-watching and just take it all in. Colin fancied gaining the true summit and so set about with some tasty looking dry-tooling and ‘French-free’ style aid to access this, one of the Chamonix Aiguille’s most jagged summits.

Topping out on the couloir onto the summit ridge!

Just below the summit

With the route and summit in the bag it was time to head down. A short, sharp ab brought us back down to the notch and we headed off the back into the Charmoz / Grepon couloir. We had been climbing on a single half rope but had brought along a 5.5mm tag line to facilitate our descent so made 50m abseils down the back side of the Charmoz. It had evidently been pretty warm in the sun on this side all day as the snow was soft, but with the temperature dropping as the afternoon warmth began to disappear from the mountains things started to firm up. We found a succession of rap anchors on the right bank and reached the Nantillons glacier an hour or so later. With conditions looking good and loads left in the tank we though it best to traverse back around to our stash and ski back down to town.

The glacier was well filled in so we remained un-roped, down and around to the point where the couloir comes down from the Col de la Buche. The last (and only time) I had been here before was 14 years ago during my first season in the Alps on my way to the top of the Aiguille de L’M. I remembered the mountains taking my breath away with their steep walls and sheer vastness, for it was like nothing I had ever seen before. We were completely in awe of the speed folk were climbing the routes out there and to be honest felt a little out of our depth. Fond memories of good times indeed, tho looking back full of mistakes and at times lucky to get away with such a steep, untutored learning curve. I remembered where the ladders were to gain entry to the couloir proper (helped by the fact I still have a picture of us; fresh-faced and youthful, but with much bigger bags in the same spot in my living room). What did we used to carry around the mountains? This final ascent felt much smaller than it did 14 years ago…

Beginning the ladders

From the breche and with daylight fading fast, it was a thigh-deep wade back down the other side and across to our skis. A quick change and we were on our way again just as daylight said good bye and we began skiing back down towards the glacier we had approached along that morning. Due to the temperature variations found on your normal alpine day, all sorts of snow conditions can (and often are) encountered on a big route. Snow can be firm on the 4am walk-in and a mushy mess on the way out, icy in places or well preserved powder. There is however almost always a point after a big route where you hit snow that is beginning to re-freeze again after a day of melting and with it a breakable crust. This is exactly the worst type of snow to encounter and always seems to come at a time near the end of the day when you have typically been on the go for 10 – 30 hours and just want to get down. I call it ‘North Face’ snow and without it’s appearance no north face escapade would be complete.

We made our way down and back onto the Mer de Glace with some combat style skiing to pick up the well travelled and piste like Vallee Blanche track. Down and round we went to the hike up through the trees to the James Bond track (our kit from the Montenvers bivi could be picked up tomorrow- the joys of a borrowed season pass). An icy but familiar descent followed as the previous days moon began to rise again.

It was 10pm by the time we hit the town and all was quiet. It had been a while since we had eaten anything so the only thing for it was to head straight to the kebab shop and order a couple of Cham Sud specials! #winning. It was then finally time for some sleep after such a great day.

I spent the next day relaxing in town and contentedly drinking coffee in the sun under the watchful gaze of the Chamonix Aiguille and the summit we were sat on less than 24 hours earlier.

Cheers Colin for a good little adventure!

Dave.

I’m up in Scotland at the minute getting ready for my BMG Winter Induction next weekend, so here’s a quick conditions write-up of what I’ve found the last few days. Tuesday 17th February- This was my first day out on the tools in Scotland this winter and unfortunately coincided with the end of the recent spell of very good conditions and the beginning of a big thaw. I joined John Crook and Bruno Yates and went and climbed ‘Italian Right-Hand’ route (IV,4) on Ben Nevis and after an abseil descent from the end of the difficulties (in-situ rap point), a very damp ‘The Curtain’ (IV,5) before running away to begin a big drying mission back in Fort William. Both routes were in really good condition if a little on the soft side by the time we were lower down the mountain on The Curtain. By the time we left it was raining at all but the highest levels. Friday 20th February- On Friday I teamed up with John Crook again with Iain Gallagher and headed up to climb ‘Tower Face of the Comb’ (VI,6). The bad weather of the previous two days had resulted in a lot of fresh snow and it took a fair wade to reach the base of the route. The route was in great nick with ice and well frozen turf in all the right places and with the forecasted heavy snow showers and a bit of wind it made for a classic ‘Ben’ day out. We topped out just as it was getting dark and got a chance to practice some nav in our descent down the side of the Red Burn and back around to the North side of the mountain. The ice up high all looked to still be in good condition from what we could see and appears to have survived the thaw of a couple of days ago well.

Team keen walking in with the CIC hut in the background

Approaching the Comb

DEEP snow!

Myself setting off on the crux pitch

Spindrift

John and Iain following the crux pitch

John setting off on the second to last pitch

Saturday 21st February- After such a great day out on the Friday we were keen to get out again and see what else we could get done. Me and John headed back up this time with John Orr and jumped on ‘Route 1’ (VI,6) on Carn Dearg Buttress with the variation start. Like all the other routes we had done this was another 3 star line, why bother doing anything less when conditions are good on Ben Nevis? There are more than enough to choose from! Even more snow had dropped down to around 250m in the night and this made for a very snowy approach. The route itself was again in good condition however there was a very definite thaw towards the end of the day. As forecasted the winds dropped off in the afternoon and we were treated to a very calm walkout with amazing views of the North Face. Another great day out. What a mountain!

John Crook on the third pitch. This is the first of the chimney pitches

A very alpine looking Ben Nevis North Face

John Orr on the first variation pitch

So a good last couple of days out. With more fresh snow on strong West to South West winds today and a High Avalanche forecast for North – North East aspects around higher locations in Lochaber / Glencoe, careful route selection will be essential over the next couple of days. Have fun out there and stay safe! Dave.

So the start of January was the time for the next round of courses for BMG candidates to attend, and with it hopefully get a step closer to completing the induction process and becoming a British Mountain Guide. The three courses were all ski / snow safety based and where all to be held in the Alps. First up was the Ski Technique course which was to be run out of Leysin, Switzerland then the Ski Induction and Avalanche courses the following week in La Grave, France. I really enjoy skiing and spending time in the Alps during the winter months, so it will come as no surprise to hear me say I was very much looking forward to this block of courses and the learning they were sure to offer. We (myself and Kev Avery, a good friend and fellow BMG candidate) had decided to rent an apartment in La Grave for the duration of the courses and headed out on the 27th December to find our ski legs and get to know the area. With us was a mutual friend James ‘Parky’ Parkinson who was along for the ride and together completed our alpine possy. Upon arrival in La Grave we were met with 30cm of fresh snow, a promising sign for the weeks ahead. We wasted no time in getting out over the next week, remembering how to ski and exploring around. The following Saturday came and I was off to Grenoble aeroport to pick up my girlfriend for a small alpine break. It was on the way back I received a txt off Parky saying Kev had slipped skiing, hurt his knee and had been choppered off the hill. Thoughts immediately came in the form of obvious concern for his wellbeing, then as to whether he would be able to continue with this year’s Guides’ programme with the ski induction just around the corner. A tense and (for Kev) problematic few days followed, the result of which was that he was now set to miss out on the ski / avalanche courses this year and would need to head back to the UK for treatment. I felt so unbelievably gutted for him that such a small, innocuous fall could end his season and delay him a year on the scheme, especially after having put so much effort in over the last year. I also felt sad that after spending such a large part of the last 12 months climbing and skiing together and after such a lot of memorable times in the hills, I would at least for this year be continuing without Kev. A full write-up of this period is available on Kev’s blog-https://truenorthalpine.wordpress.com/2015/01/10/trouble-at-knee/

Kev and Parky touring en route to Pic Blanc

A few days later and I made the 3 hour solo drive to Leysin for the Ski Technique course. This is a course that has been running now for around 15 years and has helped dozens of BMG scheme participants improve their skiing. The course was setup by the Fred Harper Memorial Trust in memory of Fred Harper who was a BMG and past Principal of Glenmore Lodge. Fred had held a particular passion for skiing during his time as a guide and his friends and family began the trust in his memory in 2000. The course was to last 3 days and include a heavy focus on technical skiing skills, both at a personal level and also how best to coach clients when out working on skis. The course was to be instructed by Alex Languetin (trainer and assessor for Swiss ski instructors, part of the Swiss demo team and technical advisor to Hefti Sports), Fabian Pavillard (ski instructor, expert trainer and Mountain Guide) and Jean Pavillard (a well-known Swiss Mountain Guide, ski instructor and past director of the Crested Butte ski school in Colorado). With these credentials I felt sure it wouldn’t disappoint! On the first day we all met in Leysin and split into 3 groups. The weather was good and the plan was to spend the day practicing techniques off the local lifts. Despite there not being an abundance of snow, the pistes were in a good condition for our needs and our group (instructed by Alex) progressed well. It was also an excellent opportunity to quiz Alex on any questions about kit or any more technical queries we might have. Alex’s knowledge on anything skiing seemed all-encompassing and not a single question was left unanswered. In the afternoon we had a short classroom based session to discuss the theory behind the techniques we were learning, and again Alex’s knowledge and passion for anything skiing really shone through with a very thorough and animated presentation. The second day brought us more good weather and it was decided to head to Les Diablerets ski area which was around a half-hour drive from Leysin. The main skiing to be done here is up high on a glacier and as such brings reliable conditions for a large part of the year. I had been here before many years ago to start the tour of the Western Bernese Oberland (a brilliant little tour- get on it), and it was great to be able to return and make use of the ski area I passed through all those years ago.

Great views from Les Diablerets ski area

Alex explaining his theory with unsettled weather building

As well as the chance to improve our skiing over the 3 days it was also great to be able to meet so many BMG members in different stages of their training and get to chat to and find out more about them and their work. The folk present for the few days ranged from BMG candidates like myself, right up to honorary guides with 30+ years guiding behind them. Members attended from all over the UK and many parts of the Alps and the wealth of experience was vast. They were all very friendly and open about their experiences of guiding and I was impressed by what a tight-knit community it was.

Bad vis, cold and blowy on the last day

The final day saw us back skiing around Leysin, only this time on a deteriorating forecast and with overcast conditions. Although it is always nice skiing under blue skies and with good conditions, this was a ski technique course so the less than ideal conditions the last day had to offer gave us a good opportunity to practice skiing in less than perfect visibility and practice using ‘the force’! The day was spent bringing together the techniques we had learnt the previous couple of days and applying them to our off-piste skiing. Some good snow was found and much fun was had! We also had another classroom based session after lunch, this time to discuss equipment and the various pros and cons of different pieces of kit. Again, this was all delivered expertly by Alex.

Alex presenting the kit presentation

After the Technique Course it was time to head back down to La Grave for the Ski Induction. This was a one day assessment of the candidate’s skiing ability and was run by Bruce Goodlad (BMG Technical Director) and Mark Diggins (head of the SAIS). Both Bruce and Mark are very experienced mountain guides and it was really good to meet and ski with them both. After weeks of blue sky and no snow the morning of the assessment brought mist and rain  to La Grave and with it strong winds and a shut lift, so It was decided to head over to Monetier to see how conditions were over there. The area was open and so skiing commenced with Bruce and Mark taking turns skiing with the candidate’s in 2 different groups on whatever terrain the area had to offer. The weather improved throughout the day as per the forecast, and I’m pleased to say the end result was that all 6 candidate’s passed and could now move onto the final induction (UK Winter), in Scotland at the end of February. Last up was the avalanche course. This was set to last 5 days and promised learning on transceiver usage and search strategies, weather observations, hazard evaluation, terrain choice, snow analysis and many other practical aspects of winter travel / guiding. The course was to be run by Mark Diggins and Bruce Goodlad again, this time with Steve Jones, Nick Parks and a local Swedish guide also on hand to offer their experience. Day 1, and after introductions it was onto the importance of understanding the history of the snowpack and the events that led up to the present time. This was really interesting listening to the ‘story’ of the snow and how we had ended up with the current conditions. After the days’ weather observations and avalanche bulletin reports (a daily theme), we headed out to the Col du Lautaret for an afternoon of practicing with safety equipment and transceiver searches / search strategies. Day 2 and we began with a classroom session looking at basic snow science and the how / why avalanches occur. This was followed up with a practical session of avalanche hazard observations, group management / dynamics and safe travel in avalanche terrain. We also began looking at snow profiles and the different types of stability tests.

Steve Jones showing us how it’s done

Day 3 and the practical session was spent looking further into travel in avalanche terrain with more snow profiles / observation, this time in pairs. This was followed by an afternoon session back in the classroom plotting the morning’s findings and interpreting the data we had found. We also looked at how to use all the information we had gathered from the previous few days when planning a ski tour for the following day. Day 4 began with the final preparation and planning of the tour for the day and then heading out to see what we find. I was with John Crook and Gareth Hughes with Mark Diggins as our instructor and we had planned a ski tour up towards the Col du Galibier from just below the Col du Lautaret. We looked carefully at route selection with reference to our planning and how it was important to be observant to change and flexible with plans whilst out in the mountains to allow thoughtful and good route selection. Mark introduced guiding strategies to us throughout the day to help us manage groups in future. We rounded off the practical element of this day with more snow profiles in our groups. The day was finished off with a presentation by Bruce on avalanche considerations for ice climbers. Day 5 was a chance for us to bring together all we had learnt throughout the last 5 days. This day was based of the La Grave lift and with very unsettled weather. There was around  30-40cm of fresh snow that had fallen the previous night which made for great skiing but also a lot to think about with the change in conditions. The day was finished off with another snow profile / analysis (this time individually) and a multiple burial transceiver test before a debrief and course evaluation back down in the valley. So all in all a brilliant few weeks out in the Alps and a huge amount learnt. I would like to extend a huge thanks to all the guides who assisted in any way with the courses and in particular a massive thanks to the Fred Harper Memorial Trust for all their help on the Ski Technique course (more details of which can be found here-http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Guide-Training/Fred-Harper-Memorial-Trust). See you all out there on the slopes! Dave.

So just back from a trip offshore and I was keen to get out around the Lakes and see what conditions are like in the hills. Here’s what I’ve found the last few days…

Thursday 5th February-

Myself and Dave Thornley went and climbed Bowfell Buttress. The weather was amazing and we had a great day out. The route was generally well frozen if a little bare in places but it was easy to avoid the not so frozen bits. The route catches the sun so this won’t be in condition now after the last few days. We used the south gully for descent off the route and found a lot of windslab deposits so care is needed in descent choice if heading down this way.

Bowfell Buttress

Friday 6th February-

Me and Dave headed out again, this time to Scafell. We did Botterill’s Slab, a route I’ve wanted to do for a long time. It isn’t V,6, more like VI,7 and more goey than routes like Fallout Corner and White Magic. It was a superb route tho, quite possibly the best I’ve done in the Lakes!

Scafell Crag

Botterill’s Slab main pitch

Saturday 7th February-

I  headed up to Helvellyn and Red Tarn Cove to climb with Claire Farrell. We climbed a route to the left of V Corner which was in really good condition. The area was very busy but all in good condition with fully frozen turf and lots of ice. Another good day out with amazing views!

Our route to the left of V Corner

Sunday 8th February- 

Today myself and Phil Evans headed back up to Scafell to see what else we could get on. The buttresses have been almost fully stripped and the gully lines were looking out too so so we turned our attention to Pikes Crag to the left of the main crag and a great little ice route there, C Gully. It had formed an impressive fall! It had started to thaw by the time we finished however the build-up is very good so it will remain a while longer yet…

C Gully

After this we had a great walk across the tops to Great End crag. The crag was busy again with all the classic lines in good nick. Things were thawing by this point but we had a blast up Central Gully Left Branch, down Cust’s Gully, then up Window Gully Icefall. Things look well set to stay in good nick on Great End the next few days with a good quantity of ice.

Scafell panorama

Window Gully Icefall

Window Gully

So all in all a great four days out on the hill and still some brilliant alpine type conditions to be had. Have fun!